Fencing Masks

These are the designs perfected by Terry Tindill, as That Guy Products. They are popular with fencing clubs such as Historical European Martial Arts (HEMA) and Society for Creative Anachronism. These masks offer greater freedom of motion, more protection, and much more rugged than the common woven wire fencing masks that you are familiar with, and all fencers have used.

Terry has been making these masks from 18 ga. 304 stainless steel. The perforations are .125" (1/8") in a staggered pattern with a 3/16" offset which leaves 40% of the surface open. The pieces are hand riveted together using 1/8" 18-8 stainless steel rivets (that ought to satisfy the geekier of you). Usually the forehead plate is solid 18ga,.

The masks have a perforated (perf) steel "body" with two different chin designs (pointed or squared) and two different brow designs (half and quarter). These all are adapted to your head. I also offer a mask made entirely of perforated steel. It is based on the half brow plate design.

The chin variations are pointed and square. The difference is purely stylistic. I haven't noticed any structural advantage to one or the other.

There are differences with the brow plates. The half plate adds a bit more rigidity to the mask but also decreases the field of vision at upper corners of mask. The quarter plate adds a bit of vision and is not quite as ridged.

I recommend the half plate for a very upright German style of long sword, and the quarter plate for Italian rapier especially Fiore.

Pointed Chin Square Chin Mask

Mask Shells

The mask shell consists of the basic mask shell of perforated and forehead of solid metal, no leather trim, no bib and no suspension.

Stainless steel = $250 + can add:
stainless steel fore head of 16ga perforated plate $30

Mild steel = $170 + can add:
can be blackened for $40
mild steel fore head of 16ga solid steel $10
mild steel fore head of 16ga perforated plate $20

Mild steel's structural strength is nominally less than stainless steel, not enough to be noticed while in use. Many folk worry about rust with mild steel. This is real, stuff a mild mask in a bag with a sweaty jacket and it will rust. That said the first one I made 15 years ago is mild, blackened, and still being used - no rust. The owner has done nothing to the finish except pack it in it's own bag - away from sweat and other wet. If not blackened I will paint the inside of the mask with grey paint to help you with rust control.

Mask Shell

Visor Mask

Visor face hinges over face so can easy open to breath, drink, listen, and talk . Like a safety visor for wood work or welding. Adds 3ounces of weight, one more moving part, and some cost.

The visor is 16 ga perforated steel. Either stainless or mild.

It is a simple shape so use the thicker metal for strength.

$120 in stainless, $80 in mild steel.

The nasal is always 16ga stainless for maximum strength.

The closure on the visor is a piece of leather on each jaw, hooked over a steel peg. Redundancy seemed good, though mine has only one at the chin and has never come undone.

I recommend the solid half plate forehead to give more strength to the front edge.

This is my mask. I do not need the structural strength most of my customers are getting these masks for, as I no longer fight long sword (at 68 years my body decided it could not take the heat inside the heaviest armor. )

Visor Mask

Trim and Bib

Leather trim and brigandine bib can be added for an additional $100.00.

Leather edging and bib are 2-3 ounce chrome tanned leather. Bib consists of two layers of 2-3 oz. chrome tanned leather with 20 ga. stainless steel fender washers riveted between. These colors of leather are available on a regular basis:

  • Black
  • Dark Blue
  • Dark Green
  • Medium Brown
  • Dark Brown

Other colors may be available, email me for my current on hand supply.

Edging is a strip of leather folded over and riveted to the back edge of the mask. This edge of the perf plate is rolled to strengthen and give a smooth finished edge.

Trim and Bib


Suspensions are the leather straps holding the mask on to the head. Since they will get soaked with your sweat, they are made of vegetable/oak tanned leather. This is for two reasons: 1) To avoid the irritation some people's skin get from the chrome tanning chemicals; 2) Allow the leather to "wet form". When wet, the leather will tend to change shape and it becomes form-fitted to your skull. Suspensions are fastened to the mask with screw rivets (Chicago rivets). These allow you to adjust the suspension in pretty much any dimension. I suggest you lock these closed with "lock tite" or similar glue. Or pack a few spares in your mask bag as they will eventually unscrew themselves, probably in the bag.

Basic: A standard suspension is $25.00

The basic suspension system consists of an adjustable inverted "T" strap across the brow and similar one across the back of the head. There is also a "stabilizing" strap across the neck (similar to the elastic strap on a standard fencing mask). Padding is necessary between the suspension and the skull. The mask will come with 1/2" of foam padding in the top of the mask. Additional padding will probably be desirable/necessary and is left to the purchaser to allow for the optimal fit to the infinite variety of the human skull. These straps are 6 - 7 ounce to 8- 9 ounce veg tanned leather. It comes with several holes, like a belt, to accommodate your preferences.

Basic Suspension

Basic suspension - $25

Elaborate: A more enclosing suspension is $50.00

Consists of 4 wide straps riveted to the front, back, and sides of the mask and then tied together at the top of the skull. This tie is adjustable. It holds the mask away from the skull and you can decide if padding is useful for your skull. These straps are 4 -5 ounce milled leather – vegetable-tanned.

Terry wrote a couple pages to help you adjust the elaborate suspension: Adjusting the Upgrade Mask Suspension
Elaborate Suspension

Elaborate suspension - $50

Protection for the back of the head

A back plate is available in 18ga perforated plate in mild steel or stainless steel.

Most fencers do not need one. If you practice a style that needs one - you know it. Usually two handed-sword, cut & thrust, and other free flowing combats.

Steel perforated plate shaped to the skull. It is fastened to the top of the back of the mask with a cotter pin in a 16ga hinge. There are metal stops on the lower front corners of the back plate resting against the front of the mask. Straps run from back plate under chin of mask; to keep it in place as you move. The nape of the neck is draped with brigandine of leather and washers matching the bib.

Mild steel back of head $50.

Stainless steel head back, $100.00.

Back plates may be ordered as a stand-alone item. Be aware that adding the back plate will require some metal work on the mask. Two holes drilled. Rivets installed, screw rivets or hand hammered rivets. If these are skills or tools you do not have available, talk to me.

Back of Fencing Mask

Hinge and Cotter Pin

Protection for the back of a standard woven mask

Have also designed a back of head to add to standard fencing masks. This design uses a tongue and buckle to attach to top of mask. ( I will send the rivets you must supply the eighth inch hole in the top of your mask). The nape drape goes a bit further forward to tuck under your masks bib. Includes chin strap.

Mild steel $90

Stainless steel $140

Back of Fencing Mask

All options in one place with prices.

I am writing down all the options with prices here in one place.

Stainless steel = $250 + can add:
stainless steel fore head of 16ga perforated plate $40
stainless steel visor $120

Milds steel = $175 + can add:
can be blackened for $40
mild steel fore head of 16ga solid steel $10
mild steel fore head of 16ga perforated plate $20
mild steel visor $80.

Ordering a Mask (answer all 8 questions)

  1. Style (pointed or square chin)
  2. Brow plate style (medium or large)
  3. Leather color for bib and trim
  4. Rivet color (silver, gun metal, or brass)
  5. Steel type (18ga mild steel or 18ga Stainless steel)
  6. Back of head (18ga mild steel, 18ga. stainless steel)
  7. The following measurements: head height, height to brow, head width (measurements are on the flat 2D plane, don't try to follow the face contours. Pretend you are measuring a box over your face)
  8. Do you wear glasses with the mask? Include the width of the glasses in addition to the width of the head. This changes the shape of the mask.

Email me at Ed@horsebows.com with any questions. We shall discuss time till completion and payment.

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Head Height

underside of chin to top of head

Height to Brow

underside of chin to brow ridge

Head Width

width of head

Mask Pricing:

The shells can purchased as pictured for $250.00 or have them finished with the following options:

  • Leather edging $10 (back edge only - got other ideas talk to me)
  • Brigandine bib with leather edging $100.00
  • Standard suspension $25.00
  • Complex suspension $50.00
  • Leather back plate with strap and buckle attachment $60.00
  • Perforated steel back plate with hinge and stops $100.00

Payments for mask and other fencing gear:

I like PayPal. My account is my usual email address horsebows@gmail.com

Shipping a Mask is $20 by US Post Office Priority Mail, a mask by Canada Postal System $25USD.
Shipping small items is $4 USD.

For custom orders: When you have sent me all the measurements and color choices I will put your order in the queue.

I have been making custom armor for 4 decades and have found I do not like holding the customers money. So please do not send down payment until I email you that your mask is a couple of weeks out . THEN I ask for half down. Shall email you when it is ready to ship - asking for the balance.

If you would prefer to send a check, that is fine, less money to the credit card companies. Remind me to send you a few spare screw rivets or rapier blunts.

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Rapier tips / Rubber arrow blunts

These come in four diameters to match the diameter of arrow shafts.

They are also used in fencing to blunt the ends of fencing rapiers, schlagers, and daggers.

Available diameters:

  • 1/4 inch blue
  • 5/16 inch red
  • 11/32 inch black
  • 23/64 inch green
  • Large HTM brand, they kinda look like a small crutch tip — These are the largest blunts a few rapiers do not fit in smaller, Also some two handed swords will fit in them. Many two handed swords need custom made leather ends.

For archery these are put on the unsharpened end of a wooden shaft. If used on aluminum or carbon shafts something is needed to fill the inside of the tubular shaft. If they are put on a sharpened wood or open end of a tubular shaft, the shaft will cut into, and eventually through the rubber.

For fencing some clubs require a metal washer or rawhide strip be put in to protect the rubber from the metal tip of the sword.

Any combination of blunt sizes are: $1.50 each, 6 for $8

Rapier tips / Rubber arrow blunts
HTM large blunt


I manufacture steel bucklers.

For rapier and side sword they are 9 inches in diameter of 18-gauge steel and curved forward to catch sword points as pictured in the 17th century Bolognaise fencing manuals.

For broadsword — either steel or wooden — the bucklers are of 16-gauge steel and curled back to guide the cutting blows away. These are in many old paintings , I am attempting to reproduce the ones from the fighting manual that was written about 1325 in Germany and is called by its museum number "I-33" (Roman one, Arabic threes.) Some commercial makers offer these, but they are mostly 14ga hence way to heavy for fencing and in my opinion over weight for broadsword.

Bucklers are $80 for either style.